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Join the ClubA quick guide to repairing a hole in your sleeping mat (2 methods)
There’s nothing worse than crawling into your sleeping bag after a long day in the hills, only to wake up hours later flat on the cold, hard ground. If your sleeping mat (or sleeping pad) has sprung a leak, you’ll quickly realise how much comfort – and warmth – it normally provides. A hole in a sleeping mat doesn’t just ruin your sleep, it also strips away the insulation you need to stay safe in cold outdoor conditions.
The good news? Most punctures are quick and easy to repair. Whether it’s a pinhole from a thorn, a spark burn from camping too close to the fire, or just general wear and tear, you don’t need to throw your mat out. With the right know-how and a simple repair kit, you can repair your sleeping mat at home – or even patch it in the backcountry – and keep it going for many more adventures.
Understanding how sleeping mats get damaged can help you to avoid the problem in the future. Although, with regular use, most sleeping mats will need minor repairs eventually. These are the main things to be aware of, even if you’ve got the most durable sleeping mat on the market:
Sharp ground debris – sticks, stones, thorns and sharp tussock grass are classic culprits. Always clear your campsite before setting up your tent and laying out your mat. This is even more important if you’re sleeping under the stars or a bivvy where your sleeping mat is in direct contact with the ground.
Spark damage – this is less common, but campfires can spit embers that can burn small holes in your sleeping mat. This is only really a problem if you’re sleeping in the open next to a fire.
Wear and tear – repeated folding, compressing, and squashing into your pack can damage your sleeping mat over time. And just like anything, regular use can
Improper use – sleeping mats aren’t designed to be dog beds, ground tarps, or hunting seats. Using them for other purposes increases the risk of punctures.
Most holes are small, pinprick leaks that slowly deflate your mat overnight. A proper repair will restore full performance and prevent the damage spreading.
Marker pen
Seam grip or textile glue (optional)
Fabric repair patch
Damp cloth
Soapy water (optional)
Inflate your mat fully. Or as much as you can with a hole in it.
Listen and feel. Hold it close to your ear or cheek – a faint hiss or breeze of air often gives it away.
Use soapy water. If that doesn’t work, mix a few drops of dish soap with water, wipe it over the mat, and look for bubbles forming at the leak. This method won’t be as easy if you’re repairing in the field.
Mark the spot. Circle the hole or tear with a marker so you don ’t lose it once the mat deflates.
Pro tip: Tiny holes can be surprisingly hard to identify. If you can’t find it in the field, inflate the mat at home and submerge it in a bath to spot the bubbles.
Wipe it clean. Use a damp cloth to remove dirt, oils, and dust. If you have rubbing alcohol, use this to create the best surface for the adhesives to stick to.
Let it dry. Adhesives don’t stick to damp fabric so give it a few minutes before starting the repair job.
A lot of sleeping mats will come with a small repair kit for using in the field. These will often contain a small tube of adhesive and/or a fabric repair patch. If you don’t have a repair kit, you can purchase kits from an outdoor store or buy repair patches and/or sealant individually.
For the most secure repair, we recommend using both sealant and a patch. However, for tiny holes, a repair patch may be sufficient. Also, if you’re in the field you may not have time to allow the adhesive to cure so a patch could be a temporary option before making a more thorough repair once you’re back home.
Repair Patch and Adhesive Method
Apply a layer of sealant over the hole or tear so it creates a smooth seal. Spread the sealant well beyond the edges of the hole or tear for extra strength. Gear Aid Seam Grip or Fast Cure Seam Sealant are good options here.
Allow time for the sealant to cure. Refer to directions on the tube.
Cut a patch slightly larger than the hole (round edges work best). Gear Aid Tenacious Tape or similar repair patches work great.
Press the patch firmly over the hole and hold for 30 seconds.
Allow the patch to take hold for around 1-2 hours before inflating and putting your weight on it.
Repair Patch Only Method
Cut a patch slightly larger than the hole (round edges work best).
If it’s a small tear, ensure the fabric is lined up evenly so the patch has a flat surface to adhere to.
Press the patch firmly over the hole and hold for 30 seconds.
Wait around 1-2 hours before attempting to fully inflate your mat and putting your weight on it,
Re-inflate the mat fully.
Check for leaks using the same soapy water method.
If it holds, you’re good to go.
If you have a hole or puncture in the seam of your sleeping mat, the repair can be a little more tricky. However, you can follow the Repair Patch and Sealant Method above. Just make sure to use plenty of the Seam Grip sealant and fold the repair patch over the seam, ensuring the patch is larger than the puncture. With seam repairs, you really want to make sure you allow several hours for the adhesive to cure to prevent it from failing.
There you have it. By following these steps, you should make a strong repair that allows you to continue using your sleeping mat for many more adventures.
These are some pro tips for preventing damage to your sleeping mat and staying prepared for when you get a puncture or leak in your sleeping pad.
Always carry a field repair kit on your hiking and camping trips. Most weigh less than 50g and it’s one of those things where it’s better to be safe than sorry.
Use a ground sheet underneath your sleeping mat if you're sleeping out in the open under the stars or a bivvy,. This helps to protect it from sticks, stones, and other sharp objects that could create a hole.
Store your sleeping mat rolled out at home in between adventures. Keeping your sleeping pad folded, compressed, and rolled up for months on end puts it under a lot of pressure, increasing the risk of puncture when you next use it.
Test your sleeping mat at home before heading out on a hike or camping trip, especially if it’s a multi-day mission or alpine adventure. Your sleeping mat isn’t only for comfort, it also provides crucial insulation from the cold ground. If you find it’s got a leak, it may be unsafe to stay out camping in freezing conditions.
Don’t rush the cure time. The sealant and repair patches can take a few hours to cure properly. If you rush this process you increase the risk of the repair failing.
Don’t delay your repairs. If you notice your sleeping mat is deflating slowly, get onto the repair job straight away. Damage will only get worse over time and you don’t want to wait until your sleeping mat’s completely flat and you’re sleeping on the cold, hard ground.
Slow leaks are the trickiest, but there are a few reliable methods. First, fully inflate your mat and press your cheek or ear against it – you’ll often feel a faint cool breeze. If that doesn’t work, mix up a bit of dish soap and water, spread it over the surface, and watch for tiny bubbles forming where air is escaping. At home, I sometimes dunk mine in the bath – the stream of bubbles gives the hole away instantly. Once you’ve found the spot, mark it with a pen before deflating.
A proper adhesive patch kit is the most reliable method. Cut a patch slightly larger than the hole (round the edges so it doesn’t peel), clean and dry the area, then stick it down firmly. For pinholes or seam leaks, a liquid repair adhesive like Gear Aid Seam Grip works well – just smear it over the spot and let it cure. I’ve run mats with patched holes for years without issues. Duct tape, on the other hand, will peel off by morning and leave a sticky mess.
Yes! You should carry a tiny field repair kit in your pack. Most weigh less than 50 grams and can turn a ruined night into a decent sleep. Pre-glued patches are the quickest fix, but even a dab of liquid adhesive will seal a hole long enough to get you through the trip. The main challenge in the bush is giving it enough time to cure, so if possible, patch it before dark and let it set while you’re having dinner.
Seam leaks are harder to fix because the fabric is under constant tension. A patch often won’t hold on a seam, but a liquid adhesive can work if applied carefully. Spread it over the seam, let it cure overnight, and test it. If the seam keeps failing, it’s usually a sign the mat has reached the end of its life. I’ve salvaged a couple of seam leaks for a season, but they rarely last forever.
Done properly, a patch repair can last the lifetime of the mat. The key is taking the time to clean and dry the fabric properly, cutting a rounded patch, and letting it cure fully before testing. Quick, half-hearted jobs are the ones that fail.
Technically you can, but they don’t bond as well to nylon or TPU fabrics. Bike tube patches are designed for rubber, and they often peel off mats after a night or two. A proper sleeping mat repair kit is cheap, lightweight, and specifically designed for the fabrics used in mats. I always recommend carrying the right kit – it’ll save you a lot of frustration.
For most overnight or warm weather trips, one good mat and a repair kit is enough. But in alpine conditions or multi-day missions, you may want to carry a thin closed-cell foam mat as insurance. It doubles as a backup if your inflatable fails, adds extra insulation on frosty nights, and makes a handy seat around camp. It’s a small weight penalty for a big safety margin.
The Bushbuck Team includes our staff, the Bushbuck Test Team, and the industry experts we work with on a regular basis. It's a way for us to speak as a brand while recognising that our knowledge, advice, and opinions come from real people who live and breathe this stuff. When we write an article or product guide, you can be sure we've tapped our team of engineers, product developers, designers, and adventurers to provide you with the most helpful, in-depth advice we can muster. The Bushbuck Team is all of our minds put together to help elevate your adventure.
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