When I first started tramping, I thought packing a hiking pack was just about fitting everything in. Turns out, it’s not just what you carry, it’s how you carry it.

Here’s why your tramping pack setup matters more than you might think:

• Backpack weight distribution impacts your posture, stamina, and balance. If you load it wrong, you’ll feel it fast, especially on uneven ground or steep ascents, and you’ll be more at risk of injuring yourself.

• Comfort is about more than padded straps. A well-packed bag works with your body, not against it.

• Quick access to critical gear – like your first aid kit or waterproof – makes you more efficient, safer, and less likely to get soaked or caught short.

• Gear protection means keeping moisture away from your down sleeping bag, electronics, or spare clothes using proper barriers like dry bags.

• Pack up and pack down is so much smoother and faster when you know exactly where everything is, allowing you more time to enjoy your adventures.

Need to upgrade your hiking pack? Check out our full guide to choosing the best one for you

The best way to load a hiking pack is by dividing it into three main zones, plus exterior pockets and accessory loops. Each section serves a purpose:

• Bottom zone – lightweight and bulky items

• Core zone – heavy and dense gear

• Top zone – quick-access essentials

• Pockets and attachments – on-the-go items and essentials

1. Bottom Zone – Lightweight, Bulky Gear

This area is all about gear you won’t need until you hit camp. These items are bulky but light. Keeping them low helps build a stable base without shifting your centre of gravity.

What to Pack in the Bottom Zone

• Sleeping bag (always in a waterproof dry bag or compression sack, especially for down sleeping bags). Your sleeping bag will usually go in the very bottom compartment if there’s enough space.

• Sleeping mat: This is a great option stashing in the bottom of your main compartment as you won’t need it until you arrive at camp.

• Camp clothes or spare thermals: If you’re dividing up your clothes, you can put the items you definitely won’t need during the hike in the bottom.

• Tent inner or fly, if packed internally: These can either go in the bottom or in the “Core” section, depending on the size and layout of your pack. You can also strap your tent to the

Note: Always put your sleeping bag in a dry bag or a plastic bag. I’ve learned the hard way that it’s one thing you don’t want to get wet. 

2. Core Zone – Heavy and Dense Gear Close to Spine

This is where backpack weight distribution becomes critical. Load this area with your heaviest gear, and keep it close to your back. Placing your heaviest gear in the middle of your back, close to your spine, keeps the pack balanced and stable. Weight too high or too far from your back will throw off your posture and drain energy.

What to Pack in the Core Zone

• Main food supplies: Everything aside from the snacks you’ll want to eat during the hike.

• Cooking system (gas, stove, pot): Most modern camping cookware is lightweight enough to pack wherever it fits. But if you’re carrying any heavier cookware, definitely try to load it close to your spine.

• Water bladder: Most hiking packs have a hydration bladder compartment in this zone.

• Tent poles: I tend to strap my tent poles to the outside of my pack (in one of the drink bottle sleeves), but you can also slide them into the Core Zone.

• Clothing in dry bags: Your clothing bag will be one of the heaviest items in your pack, especially in winter. Use a dry bag to compress your clothing into a more flat shape so you can position it down the back of your pack.

Note: On one of my first multi-day hikes, I stored my food right at the top because I wanted to have easy access to my lunch. But my pack was lurching around like I was carrying an animal. The next day, I packed my food closer to my body and the difference was like night and day.

3. Top Zone – Essentials and Quick-Access Gear

This is where you store the things you’ll use regularly or need in a hurry. If it might rain, you don’t want to unpack your food bag to find your waterproof jacket. If someone cuts themselves, your first aid kit should be the first thing you grab – not the last. If you have a good sized lid, you can also pack most of these items in there for even faster access.

What to Pack in the Top Zone

• Rain jacket or outer shell: These can either be in the very top of your pain compartment or in the lid compartment, depending on how much space you have.

• Trail snacks: If you don’t have hip pockets, pack your snacks into the lid for easy access. You can always ask your hiking buddy to grab something out of the lid for you.

• First aid kit: If something goes wrong, you want this to be easy to access. This can also go in your lid if you have space.

• Toilet paper: Because when nature calls… you don’t want to be mucking around digging through your pack. This can also go in your lid if you have space.

• Gloves, hat, neck gaiter: This allows you to adapt to the temperature and hiking conditions quickly without unloading everything. You can also stash these in your lid if you have room.

• Head torch and other electronics: The main reason for storing these up top is so they don’t get crushed and damaged under the weight of your heavier gear. But it’s not a bad idea to have your head torch handy in case you end up walking in the dark. These can also be lid items if you have capacity.

4. Side Pockets, Lid, and Hip Belt – High-Frequency Items

Most hiking packs are equipped with various external pockets and storage options. These are great for things you want to be able to grab on the go, or awkward items that don’t really fit anywhere else.

What to Pack in External Storage

Side Pockets

• Drink bottles

• Tent poles and pegs (if external)

• Camp shoes or wet gear (you can strap or clip these to the outside)

• Sunscreen, insect repellent

Lid Pocket

• Map, compass, GPS

• Multitool or knife

• Power bank and cords

• Notebook and pen

• Toilet paper

• First aid kit

• Head torch

Hip Belt Pockets

• High-energy snacks

• Lip balm

• Phone or PLB

• Mini torch or lighter

5. Extra: Filling the Gaps

The outer area of the main compartment in your hiking pack (away from the Core Zone close to your spine) is a great place for squeezing in lightweight, softer items. Not only is this an effective use of space, it also stops your gear from moving around when you’re on the trail. 

Items like a puffer jacket, fleece, or camping towel are good options for squeezing into the gaps around the outside of your pack.

Dry Bags and Compression Sacks

It’s definitely worth investing in some dry bags and compression sacks. Not only do they help organise your gear, they allow you to fit more in and ensure your clothing and sleeping bag stay dry for the duration of your trip. You can use dry bags to compress your gear so you don’t really need both. 

Dry Bags

Use them for:

• Sleeping bag

• Clothing

• Electronics

• Food: This is more for easy organisation, but can also be helpful if something leaks.

Compression Sacks

Use them for:

• Down jackets

• Sleeping bag (many sleeping bags come with a compression sack)

• Clothing

When it comes to packing for multi-day hikes, a good system makes all the difference. Here’s what works:

• Keep your kit modular – each type of gear in its own dry bag (e.g. cook kit, sleeping system, hygiene, food).

• Split communal gear evenly — if you're sharing a tent or cooker, make sure the load’s balanced across your crew.

• Leave space – don’t pack your bag to bursting. You’ll always need space for rubbish, wet gear, or that last-minute extra.

• Anchor everything – loose items inside or outside the pack can throw off your balance or fall out on the track. Use your pack straps to secure everything.

• Use a pack liner – if you don’t want to invest in multiple dry bags, you can get a cheap waterproof plastic pack liner instead.

• Adjust as you go – if something isn’t feeling quite right on the trail, take the time to adjust to avoid imbalances and injuries.

Common Packing Mistakes to Avoid

• Top-heavy packs – lead to shoulder fatigue and poor balance.

• Unbalanced side pockets – shift your centre of gravity and affect your stride.

• No dry bags – almost guarantees something vital will get soaked.

• Overpacking the outside – mugs, socks, and gear swinging off straps are just asking to get snagged or lost.

• Essential items buried deep – if your rain jacket is under your food bag, you're in trouble.

FAQs: How to Pack a Hiking Pack

How heavy should my pack be?

Aim for 20–25% of your body weight. Any heavier, and you’ll start compromising comfort and mobility.

What’s the best way to load a hiking pack for stability?

Keep the heaviest items centred and close to your spine, just above the hips. Pack lighter items at the bottom and quick-access gear at the top.

Should I use a pack liner or individual dry bags?

Individual dry bags give better organisation and redundancy. A liner alone won’t protect against water coming in through zips or openings.

Should I use a water bladder or bottles?

Both. I use a bladder for sipping on the go and bottles for backup or carrying electrolytes. Having multiple water sources adds flexibility.

How should I pack wet gear?

Wet or dirty gear (like flysheets, towels, or ground tarps) should go in an external mesh pocket or strapped to the outside of your pack. Keep it away from your dry clothes and sleeping kit. Use a waterproof stuff sack if it’s still dripping.

How can I stop my gear shifting around inside my pack?

Fill any empty space with soft gear (like clothing), use compression straps inside and out, and make use of packing cubes or dry bags. A stable load means fewer surprises on steep descents or technical ground.

What’s the best way to carry hiking poles when not in use?

Most packs have side loops or elastic toggles designed for poles. Store them vertically down the side, handle up, tips down. If your pack doesn’t have loops, stash them in a side pocket and secure with a compression strap.

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