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Join the ClubFull Guide: How to organise and pack your hiking pack for weight distribution and comfort
Packing a hiking pack isn’t just about fitting everything in – it’s about making sure every item has its place and purpose. Get it right, and your pack feels like a natural extension of your body: balanced, comfortable, and easy to live out of. Get it wrong, and every stop becomes a gear explosion, your shoulders ache before lunch, and your puffer’s buried beneath three days of food.
This guide walks you through how to pack a hiking pack correctly, step by step. Whether you’re heading out on your first overnighter or planning a multi-day backcountry mission, you’ll learn the best way to load your hiking pack for maximum efficiency.
We’ll cover every part of your tramping pack setup, from sleeping bags and cooking gear to rain jackets, snacks, poles, and toilet paper, plus how to use dry bags and compression sacks to make the most of your limited space.
When I first started tramping, I thought packing a hiking pack was just about fitting everything in. Turns out, it’s not just what you carry, it’s how you carry it.
Here’s why your tramping pack setup matters more than you might think:
Backpack weight distribution impacts your posture, stamina, and balance. If you load it wrong, you’ll feel it fast, especially on uneven ground or steep ascents, and you’ll be more at risk of injuring yourself.
Comfort is about more than padded straps. A well-packed bag works with your body, not against it.
Quick access to critical gear – like your first aid kit or waterproof – makes you more efficient, safer, and less likely to get soaked or caught short.
Gear protection means keeping moisture away from your down sleeping bag, electronics, or spare clothes using proper barriers like dry bags.
Pack up and pack down is so much smoother and faster when you know exactly where everything is, allowing you more time to enjoy your adventures.
Need to upgrade your hiking pack? Check out our full guide to choosing the best one for you
The best way to load a hiking pack is by dividing it into three main zones, plus exterior pockets and accessory loops. Each section serves a purpose:
Bottom zone – lightweight and bulky items
Core zone – heavy and dense gear
Top zone – quick-access essentials
Pockets and attachments – on-the-go items and essentials
This area is all about gear you won’t need until you hit camp. These items are bulky but light. Keeping them low helps build a stable base without shifting your centre of gravity.
What to Pack in the Bottom Zone
Sleeping bag (always in a waterproof dry bag or compression sack, especially for down sleeping bags). Your sleeping bag will usually go in the very bottom compartment if there’s enough space.
Sleeping mat: This is a great option stashing in the bottom of your main compartment as you won’t need it until you arrive at camp.
Camp clothes or spare thermals: If you’re dividing up your clothes, you can put the items you definitely won’t need during the hike in the bottom.
Tent inner or fly, if packed internally: These can either go in the bottom or in the “Core” section, depending on the size and layout of your pack. You can also strap your tent to the
Note: Always put your sleeping bag in a dry bag or a plastic bag. I’ve learned the hard way that it’s one thing you don’t want to get wet.
This is where backpack weight distribution becomes critical. Load this area with your heaviest gear, and keep it close to your back. Placing your heaviest gear in the middle of your back, close to your spine, keeps the pack balanced and stable. Weight too high or too far from your back will throw off your posture and drain energy.
What to Pack in the Core Zone
Main food supplies: Everything aside from the snacks you’ll want to eat during the hike.
Cooking system (gas, stove, pot): Most modern camping cookware is lightweight enough to pack wherever it fits. But if you’re carrying any heavier cookware, definitely try to load it close to your spine.
Water bladder: Most hiking packs have a hydration bladder compartment in this zone.
Tent poles: I tend to strap my tent poles to the outside of my pack (in one of the drink bottle sleeves), but you can also slide them into the Core Zone.
Clothing in dry bags: Your clothing bag will be one of the heaviest items in your pack, especially in winter. Use a dry bag to compress your clothing into a more flat shape so you can position it down the back of your pack.
Note: On one of my first multi-day hikes, I stored my food right at the top because I wanted to have easy access to my lunch. But my pack was lurching around like I was carrying an animal. The next day, I packed my food closer to my body and the difference was like night and day.
This is where you store the things you’ll use regularly or need in a hurry. If it might rain, you don’t want to unpack your food bag to find your waterproof jacket. If someone cuts themselves, your first aid kit should be the first thing you grab – not the last. If you have a good sized lid, you can also pack most of these items in there for even faster access.
What to Pack in the Top Zone
Rain jacket or outer shell: These can either be in the very top of your pain compartment or in the lid compartment, depending on how much space you have.
Trail snacks: If you don’t have hip pockets, pack your snacks into the lid for easy access. You can always ask your hiking buddy to grab something out of the lid for you.
First aid kit: If something goes wrong, you want this to be easy to access. This can also go in your lid if you have space.
Toilet paper: Because when nature calls… you don’t want to be mucking around digging through your pack. This can also go in your lid if you have space.
Gloves, hat, neck gaiter: This allows you to adapt to the temperature and hiking conditions quickly without unloading everything. You can also stash these in your lid if you have room.
Head torch and other electronics: The main reason for storing these up top is so they don’t get crushed and damaged under the weight of your heavier gear. But it’s not a bad idea to have your head torch handy in case you end up walking in the dark. These can also be lid items if you have capacity.
Most hiking packs are equipped with various external pockets and storage options. These are great for things you want to be able to grab on the go, or awkward items that don’t really fit anywhere else.
What to Pack in External Storage
Side Pockets
Drink bottles
Tent poles and pegs (if external)
Camp shoes or wet gear (you can strap or clip these to the outside)
Sunscreen, insect repellent
Lid Pocket
Map, compass, GPS
Multitool or knife
Power bank and cords
Notebook and pen
Toilet paper
First aid kit
Head torch
Hip Belt Pockets
High-energy snacks
Lip balm
Phone or PLB
Mini torch or lighter
The outer area of the main compartment in your hiking pack (away from the Core Zone close to your spine) is a great place for squeezing in lightweight, softer items. Not only is this an effective use of space, it also stops your gear from moving around when you’re on the trail.
Items like a puffer jacket, fleece, or camping towel are good options for squeezing into the gaps around the outside of your pack.
It’s definitely worth investing in some dry bags and compression sacks. Not only do they help organise your gear, they allow you to fit more in and ensure your clothing and sleeping bag stay dry for the duration of your trip. You can use dry bags to compress your gear so you don’t really need both.
Use them for:
Sleeping bag
Clothing
Electronics
Food: This is more for easy organisation, but can also be helpful if something leaks.
Use them for:
Down jackets
Sleeping bag (many sleeping bags come with a compression sack)
Clothing
When it comes to packing for multi-day hikes, a good system makes all the difference. Here’s what works:
Keep your kit modular – each type of gear in its own dry bag (e.g. cook kit, sleeping system, hygiene, food).
Split communal gear evenly — if you're sharing a tent or cooker, make sure the load’s balanced across your crew.
Leave space – don’t pack your bag to bursting. You’ll always need space for rubbish, wet gear, or that last-minute extra.
Anchor everything – loose items inside or outside the pack can throw off your balance or fall out on the track. Use your pack straps to secure everything.
Use a pack liner – if you don’t want to invest in multiple dry bags, you can get a cheap waterproof plastic pack liner instead.
Adjust as you go – if something isn’t feeling quite right on the trail, take the time to adjust to avoid imbalances and injuries.
Top-heavy packs – lead to shoulder fatigue and poor balance.
Unbalanced side pockets – shift your centre of gravity and affect your stride.
No dry bags – almost guarantees something vital will get soaked.
Overpacking the outside – mugs, socks, and gear swinging off straps are just asking to get snagged or lost.
Essential items buried deep – if your rain jacket is under your food bag, you're in trouble.
Aim for 20–25% of your body weight. Any heavier, and you’ll start compromising comfort and mobility.
Keep the heaviest items centred and close to your spine, just above the hips. Pack lighter items at the bottom and quick-access gear at the top.
Individual dry bags give better organisation and redundancy. A liner alone won’t protect against water coming in through zips or openings.
Both. I use a bladder for sipping on the go and bottles for backup or carrying electrolytes. Having multiple water sources adds flexibility.
Wet or dirty gear (like flysheets, towels, or ground tarps) should go in an external mesh pocket or strapped to the outside of your pack. Keep it away from your dry clothes and sleeping kit. Use a waterproof stuff sack if it’s still dripping.
Fill any empty space with soft gear (like clothing), use compression straps inside and out, and make use of packing cubes or dry bags. A stable load means fewer surprises on steep descents or technical ground.
Most packs have side loops or elastic toggles designed for poles. Store them vertically down the side, handle up, tips down. If your pack doesn’t have loops, stash them in a side pocket and secure with a compression strap.
The Bushbuck Team includes our staff, the Bushbuck Test Team, and the industry experts we work with on a regular basis. It's a way for us to speak as a brand while recognising that our knowledge, advice, and opinions come from real people who live and breathe this stuff. When we write an article or product guide, you can be sure we've tapped our team of engineers, product developers, designers, and adventurers to provide you with the most helpful, in-depth advice we can muster. The Bushbuck Team is all of our minds put together to help elevate your adventure.
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